Dame Kristi Drake
The seductive fragrance of toasting hazelnuts wafts from the doorway of Le Panier Bakery on many afternoons, while morning aromas offer clues to the scrumptious array of classic French baked goods inside. Walk down a few steps into the inviting bakery to find display cases brimming with sweet pain au chocolates, croissants au beurre, brioche loaves, baguettes, and dozens of other authentic French pastries. A case devoted to a rainbow of macarons from lemon and pistachio to framboise and chocolat is pure temptation.
Co-owned and managed by Dame Kristi Drake, Le Panier Bakery is a cornerstone of Pike Place Market.On busy summer days (pre-pandemic times), there’s always a line out the door. In normal times too, a bustling crowd would occupy tables and chairs inside the bakery relishing the array of baked goods to pair with cappuccinos, café lattes, or afternoon tea. Since October 1995, Kristi has been Manager and Co-Owner of Le Panier Bakery with her business partner, Thierry Mougin, a master baker and Frenchman by birth. Their Le Panier connection goes back to its beginning since they were the Managers and Bakers when it first opened in June 1983. At that time, the bakery was established by Hubert Loevenbruck, an entrepreneur who arrived from France in the mid-1970s, bringing with him eight professional bakers to staff bakeries featuring classic French pastries in Portland and Seattle.
I earned a B.S. in Food Science and Nutrition,” Kristi says, “and planned to become a nutritionist, but the bakery seduced me into staying as I learned about the wonderful French traditions surrounding food and eating seasonally. Although she left the bakery in 1990 to become a stay-at-home mom, she returned in 1995 to buy the business in partnership with Thierry Mougin. “Bakery life is a terrific life, especially if you’re a morning person,” she notes. Add the consistent demand and respect for good food in France, a heritage the bakery shares with its fans, and it’s easy to understand why Le Panier is a longstanding Market favorite.
Along with its assortment of traditional French baked goods, all made with devotion using classic techniques — and fresh butter, of course! — Le Panier also offers seasonal treats. Summertime’s Clafoutis Aux Cerises celebrates Washington State’s bonanza of cherries in pure French style, while Asperges Feuilleté offers tender asparagus spears tucked between layers of buttery pastry. In cold weather months and for the Christmas holidays, offerings typically include Tarte aux Poires, Macaron Noisette, and the classic Bûche de Noël.
Despite Coronavirus shutdowns causing the bakery to completely close for two months this past spring — the first time it had ever been closed in its history — Le Panier has bounced back just like rising bread dough. “During the pandemic shut down, we baked bread and croissants to donate in support of the Pike Place Market Foundation, which operates the Market’s Senior Center and Food Bank sustaining more than 2,000 persons,” Kristi shares. Alas, some bakery staff had to be laid off with pandemic challenges, but for the current 35 employees, the “to-go” and curbside pick-up options are working very well. “We’re again open seven days a week, and because a bakery’s product rotation is 48-hours, we’re able to increase or decrease production as needed,” says Kristi. “Our bakers also rotate between positions so everyone learns everything in a few years and can fill in for different roles when and if needed.”
The delectable magic behind Le Panier? “People come in for something enjoyable, a treat,” Kristi says. “Baking can be frustrating and complicated at times, but so worth it. Serving our customers, bringing simple delights to people’s lives everyday makes us happy.”
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